Last summer, I went to Cheknyiseb township, located at the far end of Qinghai Province. It is under the jurisdiction of Nangchen County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The locals are nomadic and move from place to place, depending on the season. This was my first solo motorbike trip to Kham Nangchen, and I was excited.
So, from this township, it’s about a 30-minute ride. I saw a small monastery at the top of a steep slope hill. It seemed near, and I was so excited to visit there, but I still needed to ride along a muddy road for almost 20 minutes.
Once I reached the foothill. There is a zig-zag dirt road on the stiff slope. I was scared a bit because I hadn’t ridden a bike on such a road before. But I took the risk and rode to the top. When I looked down, I felt like how am I supposed to ride down and started worrying.
Then there are a few stray cases that lead to the monastery. I took my gear and hiked up there. When I was at the top. I was speechless and suddenly fell in love with this place, and just sat near the cliff and enjoyed the view. I could see whole valleys around this hill and felt I was at the world’s top. It was cloudy, and it seemed like I could touch the clouds.
I met a few monks taking a break from the retreat. I was excited to talk with them and learn about this fantastic place. Sufantasticicthe rain started pouring, and I ran to the monk’s quarter. There was an elderly monk who was sitting on a bench. I approached him, and he was a gentle person and greeted me with a big smile. It was a touching moment, and I felt comfortable. He asked where I was from and the purpose of this visit.
So, I said I came from Yushu and love to travel around and learn about the places I visit. I explained how I ended up here. Then he laughed along with the other monks. One monk asked me what had happened to my pants. I looked down, and it was covered with mud. I said, oh, I was riding my motorbike, and roads are pretty muddy out here.
They offered me warm milk tea and some bread. The rain stopped, and sun rays appeared majestically behind the dark clouds. I went out to see the view again, and it was much better under the sun. The older man followed me and laughed at my facial expression. I asked, “Will you please tell me about this place and the monastery?”
Raza Dzonggo Monastery
He said,” The name of the monastery is Raza Dzonggo Gon. It is a retreat center for monks. It is considered one of the most sacred sites in Chiknyisep Township. According to the history of this site, at the end of the 11th century, one of the most prominent Yogi Ga Lotsawa Shunu Palnyi stayed in retreat at the end of his life. We have a reliquary stupa of our Guru.
Later in the 18th century, many other famous yogis retreated here for a long time. There have been many retreaters staying here and still serving as retreat centers. There are so many footprints and handprints of great yogis on these rocks. Many people don’t know about this place, and nowadays I’m in charge here as my teacher requested me to look after this place. So, it’s been seven years.”
The landscape of the valley
I asked him,” How long will you look after this place?” He said,” Till I die, I like this place because it is peaceful, and look at this landscape. Where would I find a place like this? It’s a perfect place for me to practice meditation and Buddhist teachings. ” I replied, “Indeed it is.” Then he said,” Let’s go out!” and I followed him.
They started to guide me around campus and climbed up further behind the monastery on the vast rock hill. There were so many prayer flags flapping in the wind. This is the highest point to climb up. I could see that mountains like the petals of a lotus surrounded this place. It is the center of all. Flocks of wild goats were grazing around, and it seemed they didn’t care about our presence. The monk said they would not run away if we didn’t harm them. They’ll do their business, and so do we. It was terrific to roam with these wild goats as if I were one of them. I felt strongly that living peacefully with these wilds is possible if we don’t harm them.
Down the valley, there is a reddish color river flowing like a snake. It is known as the Tsichu River, and the river head is located in Tibet Autonomous Region, which is not far from here. It was a mesmerizing moment that is hard to write in words.
A day well spend
Before dawn, we got down to the monastery. He offered me to stay at the monastery and have dinner together with them. I instantly accept their hospitality. He said, “Usually lay people are not allowed to stay here, but you are just alone, so we’ll give an excuse for that,” and he laughed. I thanked him for his hospitality and kindness and spent my night in their guest room.
The next day I woke up early and enjoyed the beautiful sunrise view from the top. It was terrific, and it’s been quiet since I haven’t seen the sunrise. The place was peaceful and silent; I could only hear wind and birds tweeting. I had breakfast and thanked him for his great hospitality. I promised him I’ll be back someday again here. Then I left the place.
It’s been a year, and finally, I’m meeting him. So, this is the reason why I am here today, to fulfill my promise. I bought some instant noodles and a bag of Tsampa as a gift. That’s all I could carry on my motorbike.
I thought he might not recognize me, but instantly he recognized me. We greeted each other. He told me he had been sick for a while and was doing well. Today there are only two of them. He said they went back to their native hometown. I gave him the gift. He was delighted and asked me to stay a night here again. I stayed there, and we had dinner together. He said, “Nowadays, so many people are coming there, and it’s quite disturbing.” I understood because it is a retreat center for monks and if many people come and make noise. Most people out here travel in a group. So obviously, it isn’t comforting.
The following morning, I left the monastery by saying goodbye to my friend and thanked him for everything. I planned to visit Tana monastery, which is about 2hours ride from here and spend a night there.
Nice
[…] lot about this place known as Tana, which means horse’s ear. It is almost two hours ride from Raza Dzonggo monastery. So, I kept riding on bumpy roads for nearly an hour, and suddenly massive rain poured down from the […]